The only way to really see Maui is by rental car. There's no real island-wide public transit.

Maui has only a handful of major roads: One follows the coastline around the two volcanoes that form the island, Haleakala and Puu Kukui; one goes up to Haleakala's summit; one goes to Hana; one goes to Wailea; and one goes to Lahaina. It sounds simple, but the names of the few roads change en route. Maui has one of the least expensive car-rental rates in the country -- about $44 a day (including all state tax and fees); the national average is about $54. Cars are usually plentiful on Maui, except on holiday weekends, which in Hawaii also means King Kamehameha Day, Prince Kuhio Day, and Admission Day. Rental cars are usually at a premium on Molokai and Lanai, so book well ahead.

All the major car-rental agencies have offices on Maui, usually at both Kahului and West Maui airports. They include: Alamo (tel. 800/327-9633; www.goalamo.com), Avis (tel. 800/321-3712; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/572-0700; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000; www.dollarcar.com), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3011; www.hertz.com), and National (tel. 800/227-7368; www.nationalcar.com).
                                                                                            
To rent a car in Hawaii, you must be at least 25 years old and have a valid driver's license and a credit card.

Insurance -- Hawaii is a no-fault state, which means that if you don't have collision-damage insurance, you are required to pay for all damages before you leave the state, whether or not the accident was your fault. Your personal car insurance back home may provide rental-car coverage; read your policy or call your insurer before you leave home. Bring your insurance identification card if you decline the optional insurance, which usually costs from $12 to $20 a day. Obtain the name of your company's local claim representative before you go. Some credit card companies also provide collision-damage insurance for their customers; check with yours before you rent.

Easy Riding around Maui
Don black denim and motorcycle boots and ride around Maui on a hog, available for $99 for 6 hours and $149 a day at Island Riders, 126 Hinau St. (by Pizza Hut), Lahaina (tel. 800/529-2925 or 808/661-9966; www.islandriders.com), and in Kihei at 1975 S. Kihei Rd. (tel. 808/874-0311). Forget the greasy Hell's Angels image; latter-day Wild Ones are buttoned-down corporate types or California Highway Patrol officers on holiday. Whether you blast up Haleakala's grand corniche or haul ass to Hana, it's the most fun you can have on two wheels. This toy store for big boys and girls also rents exotic cars (Dodge Vipers, Prowlers, and Corvettes), which start at about $169 for 5 hours and $249 a day. They also have 4x4 Jeeps starting at $69 for 8 hours and $79 for 24 hours.

Mopeds
Mopeds are available for rent from Toy Cars, 640 Front St., #5, Lahaina (tel. 888/628-4227 or 808/661-1212; www.maui.net/~toystore/bike10.htm). Mopeds, which start at $35 for 4 hours and $50 for all day (8am-4:30pm), are little more than motorized bicycles that get up to around 35 mph (with a good wind at your back), so I suggest using them only locally (to get to the beach or to go shopping). Don't take them out on the highway because they can't keep up with the traffic. Toy Cars also rents motorcycles and dune buggies.

Other Transportation Options
Taxis -- For island-wide 24-hour service, call Alii Cab Co. (tel. 808/661-3688 or 808/667-2605). You can also try Kihei Taxi (tel. 808/879-3000), Wailea Taxi (tel. 808/874-5000), or Maui Central Cab (tel. 808/244-7278) if you need a ride.
Shuttles -- SpeediShuttle (tel. 808/875-8070; www.speedishuttle.com) can take you between Kahului Airport and all the major resorts from 5am to 11pm daily (for details, see "Landing at Kahului Airport" under "Getting There,").

Holo Ka'a Public Transit (tel. 808/879-2828; www.akinatours.com) is a public/private partnership that has convenient, economical, and air-conditioned shuttle buses. The costs range from free shuttle vans within the resort areas, like Wailea, to just $1 for the bus from Kaanapali to Lahaina.